Zac Posen has been on 40 planes since January 1, laying the groundwork for the imminent launch of his Delta uniforms. It’s a project with global scale. He’s designed kits for upwards of 60,000 of the airline’s employees, from flight attendants to the ground crew and all posts in between. Everything had to be stress tested, and as for sizing, it’s a whole lot more complicated than the department store standard 0 to 12.
All that is to say, the project has been no flight of fancy. You could even argue that the three years he’s been working on it have made him a different kind of designer. There’s a certain orderly strategy to his ready-to-wear collections now, everything categorized: crepe suiting, clingy compact jersey dresses, high evening tulle, et cetera. (Then again, that could just be a side effect of no longer showing on the runway.)
What was exciting about his new Resort collection was seeing him venture off script with a magnificent gown in ombré silk jacquard featuring voluptuously draped sleeves and fraying details at the shoulders, which he described as having a new “in construction” quality. There was an appealing freedom to it, an almost, but not quite, sense of letting loose, though Posen insisted that the inside was just as pristine as anything his atelier ever makes. He also promised more along these lines for Spring 2019.
Elsewhere the surprises were more minor yet still pleasant. The charming Liberty-print dresses that until now have only been available in Sea Island cotton are coming in a sweet washed silk. And a va-va-voom-y party dress not unlike the knockout that Karen Elson wore in his first independent show in February 2002 made an appearance. Said Posen, “It’s been a while since we’ve done a dress like this in silk faille.” It was good to see it back.